NKOTEIYA ECO-LODGE, SAMBURU
“Look for chances to take the less-traveled roads. There are no wrong turns.” ― Susan Magsamen
When is the last time you went to a place that took your breath away? I would like to think of Nkoteiya Eco lodge as the most beautiful place in Samburu. I haven’t traveled enough to confidently say this but for now it ranks highly on my list. The first time I went there, I remember wondering how such a beautiful place could exist in literally the middle of nowhere. Then earlier this year I took some guests there. One of them confessed that when we were on the road she thought I was taking them camping while another asked how I even knew that place existed.
Description
Set on a rocky hill overlooking the Ewaso Nyiro, the lodge has 3 bedrooms and a fourth was almost complete when we visited in April. There is a kitchen with all the equipment and cutlery enough for 20 people. I know you are wondering why there is cutlery for 20 people…me too my friend me too. The mess area has a beautiful view that almost feels like an apology from the suffering on Laikipian-Samburu rough roads. It is the best spot to catch the sunrise. The bandas have been made in a way that preserves the natural environment. They have built around the rocks instead of bringing them down which is pretty cool if you ask me.
Getting there
There are 3 ways to get to Nkoteiya Eco lodge but I will tell you about the route we took in details and a general overview of the others.
Nairobi to Nanyuki is pretty straight forward on the A2. When you get to Nanyuki, branch left at Total petrol station onto C76 ( Nanyuki-Rumuruti road) where after 8 KM you will turn right onto the Doldol road. Drive another 13 Km to Naibor town which marks the end of the tarmacked road and the beginning of the true African massage. On this road you will pass through Oljogi Game Reserve on a public road. Your are likely to see lots of wildlife…In our case we came across elephants, reticulated giraffes, common and grevy zebras. The next ‘town’ is Ilpolei from where you will turn left towards kimanju-Ewaso. Don’t be afraid to ask the locals for directions. They are pretty cool people. This is the order of towns from Ilpolei-Kimanju-Ewaso-Kirimon_Nkoteiya. I hope this helps because google maps and network coverage in this area certainly wont.
If rough roads are not your cup of tea, you can use the Nairobi-Nyahururu-Rumuruti-Maralal-Kisima- Nkoteiya route. This is a longer route but the only murram road you will encounter is Kisima-Nkoteiya which is less than 20km. The 3rd route is Nairobi-Nanyuki-Isiolo-Archers post-Wamba-Nkoteiya. Expect more than your typical rough road from the Wamba junction to Nkoteiya…you can call me plug for the roads less traveled.
Arrival
The team at Nkoteiya Eco-lodge will be waiting to give you a warm welcome …Sammy the chef, Peter the room steward and storyteller and Kelvin the waiter. There is a fourth host who I named Kanyau the cat. I could go on and on but how about some photos to help tell the story.
The view from the lounge at sunrise
Rooms view from the observation rock
Here you can read a book, chat with your people or just stare at the view…it is incredible.
Sunrise
On day two, Peter took us down the valley for a walk to show us their water source with the hope of seeing elephants from a safe distance. We couldn’t go down to the river for safety reasons because the rangers were out for a meeting
On this walk, Peter proved to be quite the story teller. I learnt that dik diks sleep facing different directions for ease of spotting danger, I also learnt about the honey guide and elephant behavior that I didn’t know despite my self proclaimed elephant behavior expertise. It was also an opportunity to see how with the right mindset, innovation and funding you can make the best out of any place. If you want to experience the best of Samburu on a budget, Nkoteiya is definitely a destination to consider.
Dragon fly
Snapshot
1. The cost is Ksh. 4,000.00 per person per day (accommodation only) 2. The lodge is on self catering basis but there is a chef on site at no extra cost. It is up to you to come up with a meal plan and shop for your groceries. 3. Nanyuki is your last shopping stop so make sure you get all your supplies there. 4. The cellular network coverage is intermittent but there is wi-fi in the lounge area. 5. A 4WD is highly recommended. There are a number of luggas (dry sand riverbeds) and rocky terrain that can only be navigated with 4WD vehicle. 6. The area is generally hot during the day but it gets quite chilly in the evening so remember to pack accordingly. 7. You can contact me through proudlylaikipiantravels@gmail.com for an all inclusive package to Nkoteiya Eco lodge.
Should you choose to explore more, you can go further North to Reteti Elephant sanctuary and/ or have a quick trip to Buffalo Springs National Reserve.
I will leave you with a few photos that hopefully inspires you to explore this destination.
Love and light,
Kuhi.
Mud bath moment at Reteti Elephant Sanctuary
Leopard sighting-Buffalo Springs National Reserve
A lioness and her cub- Buffalo Springs National Reserve
The Samburu six..the sixth is behind the lens