ABERDARES: CHASING WATERFALLS

There is no better place to find yourself than sitting by a waterfall and listening to its music. ~Roland R. Kemler

The Aberdares National Park Ecosystem is vast and full of surprises. It borders five counties that is, Kiambu, Nyeri, Nyandarua, Nakuru and Laikipia. I believe it would take several visits to fully experience it. It is also a hiker’s haven and has more waterfalls than you can visit in a day or two. On this trip, I hosted a group of seven people to chase 3 waterfalls but we got 4. Since we were coming from Nanyuki, we used the Ark gate near Mweiga town. If you are coming from Nairobi the best route would be Matubio gate via Naivasha and Shamata gate if you are coming from Nyahururu.

We picked our guide John at the Ark gate and into the park we went. It was a chilly morning but the lush green landscape kept us distracted. we all agreed to start with the farthest waterfall which was quite a long drive from the gate. I don’t think I was mentally prepared for that. John helped us navigate by car to as close to the waterfall as we could get so as to minimize our hiking distance.

Karuru and Gura falls

Our first stop was the Karuru falls. As we walked to the first viewing platform I saw it…standing out and calling for our attention from across the platform. For a moment I thought that was the famous Karuru falls but turns out it was Gura falls which is part of River Gura, the fastest river in Africa…Yes, I am as surprised as you are.

Gura falls

We then got to see Karuru falls which is a chain of three waterfalls that form the highest waterfall in Kenya standing at 273 Meters. From either of the viewing platforms you can’t see the three layers let alone the bottom of the first one. The forest is so dense that hiking to the bottom is not allowed and neither are drones. I am just over here manifesting a tropic air chopper ride to see Karuru in all her glory.

Karuru Falls

Karuru falls with a bit of rainbow showing off.

Magura Falls

Although not as high as Karuru falls, Magura falls, part of Magura river is beautiful. What’s even better, you can hike all the way to the base and enjoy the full view of the falls. I love the sound of water and this waterfall gave me that. It also served as our snack point which means we got to enjoy it more than the others.

Magura falls

Chania falls

By the time we drove to Chania falls everyone was tired and some even requested we call it a day at this point. John insisted that we go down to check it out and looking back I am grateful he did because it was the most beautiful of them all. In retrospect I wish we had more time here. There are three viewing platforms each lower than the other making it a hike all the way to the bottom. I remember mumbling to myself that I would regret my choice to go down which I did but it was all worth it.

Chania falls

As much as this trip was about chasing waterfalls, the Aberdares gave us so much more. We came across a herd of elephants, buffaloes and antelope species whose names I can’t remember. I also saw a wild pig for the first time ever. John gave us a quick tour of The Ark, one of the hotels in the park. Sadly the Treetops hotel closed its doors due to covid and hasn’t found its way back. A lone elephant bull bid us farewell on our way out and our hearts were truly full.

Everlasting (wildflowers)

The elephants of the Aberdares

John… If you need an excellent guide I will be happy to share his contact.

I loved how intentional those in charge of the Aberdares are about keeping the park clean and maintaining the flora and fauna of the place. John gave us a proper lesson on conservation and I am glad to see him being passionate about what he does. It wasn’t just a job to him

Here is what you need to know about going to the aberdares

All payments are made at the gate including an armed KWS guide. At the moment park fees is Ksh. 300.00 per person and Ksh. 1,750.00 for a guide (half-day). KWS recently introduced high and low season rates The mode of payment is cashless so remember to load you MPESA or card. The viewing points at the waterfalls are quite high… please be cautious. Swimming is not allowed at any of the waterfalls The roads in the park are well maintained but I highly recommend a good 4WD especially during the rainy season.

That said, I host small groups for day trips /excursions to various parts of the country. If you want to join or a custom made package, follow me on Instagram Proudly Laikipian Travels.

Love and love always,
Mukuhi.